What to Expect
When Working with Top Job
Select a Service
Select a service to learn more about what to expect on the day of your service.
Surface Treatments
What to Expect
CUSTOMER RESPONSIBILITIES
Turn off your sprinklers or other water sources so that the pavement is clean and dry when the crew is scheduled to arrive.
Remove all encumbrances from the work area, including dumpsters, vehicles, flower pots, trailers, etc.
Reschedule deliveries and pickups. Notify all affected parties.
GENERAL
Sealing the surface of your asphalt involves blowing dust and debris from the surface and applying the treatment product of your choice. In order to accomplish this we need full access to the entire work area, as well as a way to access the area with our equipment. We need enough time to apply the product and let it cure. Cure time required for vehicular traffic is typically 6-24 hours, depending on the product and temperatures, and direct sunlight. Other variables affecting cure time include quantity of initial traffic, quantity of acceptable scuffing, quantity of acceptable tracking, weight of initial traffic (semis), and linear vs. non-linear traffic. Please find below a general guidelines cure time chart. Please consult your estimator or our product specialist with any special issues or concerns (drive throughs, properties with 24hr traffic, etc.). We have seen just about every kind of traffic issue, and can help minimize impact, saving you money and headaches.
| Seal Coat | Top Guard | Fog Seal | |
| 50-65 degrees w/ direct sun | 20hrs | 24hrs | 18hrs |
| 65-80 w/ direct sun | 10hrs | 12hrs | 12hrs |
| 80+ degrees w/ direct sun | 4hrs | 5hrs | 12hrs |
| 80+ degrees little/no sun | 6hrs | 8hrs | 12hrs |
DISCLOSURES
Top Job uses shields to minimize overspray. Sometimes small amounts of overspray or drips on adjacent surfaces may occur. If customer is particular about something staying clean that cannot be moved away from the work area, it is the customer’s responsibility to mask or otherwise protect those items/surfaces.
Sometimes small bubbles appear in sealer. Top Job always works hard to work these bubbles out, however sometimes we cannot get them all out. These bubbles do not jeopardize the integrity of the sealant or the pavement, and are not covered under warranty.
Applying seal coat to a surface with multiple existing layers of surface treatment can lead to delamination of new and existing layers. It shall be the customer’s responsibility to understand the history of their pavement and not apply sealer at a frequency that will cause delamination. Top Job experts can give informed information and advice, as well as suggest/quote alternate treatments to avoid delamination, but the final responsibility rests on the customer.
HOW TO CARE FOR YOUR ASPHALT
Keep it clean. Sand and dirt act like sandpaper under traffic, wearing away your sealer and pavement. Keeping it clean will help it last longer.
Don’t let oil or other harmful solvents or chemicals get on your asphalt. They will destroy your asphalt.
When at least 50-75% of the sealer has worn off, you can look at resealing.
When cracks reach a minimum of ¼ inch wide and deep, it’s time to look at sealing them. Additional info can be found in our “Cracks: What to Expect” document.
Crack Seal
What to Expect
CUSTOMER RESPONSIBILITIES
Turn off your sprinklers or other water sources so that the area is clean and dry when the crew is scheduled to arrive.
Remove all encumbrances from the work area, including dumpsters, vehicles, flower pots, trailers, etc.
Reschedule deliveries and pickups. Notify all affected parties.
Spray and remove weeds.
GENERAL
Sealing cracks in the asphalt involves blowing or scrubbing out any foreign debris and applying hot tar. This process goes very quickly and pavement can typically be opened back up to traffic almost immediately. The area of work that cannot be driven on is located in close proximity to the truck and crew, which allows the rest of the lot to be used during the application.
MATERIAL
Top Job uses a range of top-of-the-line products that have different characteristics, depending on climate and application. Softer products are typically used on roads and in colder climates, while parking lots and hotter climates require a harder product. As a general rule, softer products are more flexible and perform better in lower temperatures, but can become tacky in hot climates.
HAIRLINES, ALLIGATORS, AND EDGE SEAL
It is not the general practice of Top Job to seal hairline cracks because:
- Crack seal applied to hairline cracks is prone to pull out. With such a small reservoir for the material to get inside the crack the bulk of the material will be outside the crack, causing the material to not be well anchored, and susceptible to pullout from traffic or snow removal efforts.
- Crack seal applied to hairline cracks is prone to re-crack. Good crack sealant can expand about 25-30% before failing, ie separating/ re-cracking. Cracks tend to grow a set amount each year regardless of size, based on the rate of pavement shrinkage. As an example let’s say that all cracks on a particular pavement grow in width 1/16 inch per year. A one inch crack will grow to be 1 1/16 inches wide, which is well under 30%. However a ⅛ inch crack will become 3/16 inches wide, or a width growth rate of 50%, causing the crack seal to fail.
- Crack sealing hairlines is a waste of funds. The primary function of crack sealing asphalt is to prevent water from damaging the pavement. Experts agree that water sitting in cracks has little/no harmful effect. Water damage is the result of saturation and/or erosion of the base and subbase materials, which compromises the load bearing capacity of the pavement. Industry experts agree that in the unlikely event that water is able to penetrate a hairline crack to the base, the volume of water over a given period of time is so minute as to be inconsequential, and therefore irrelevant. This is also why cracks don’t need to be filled all the way to the top, and in fact over filling cracks causes more issues like pullout, tracking, and tripping hazards, to name a few.
It is not the general practice of Top Job to seal alligator cracks because:
- Crack seal is designed to protect the base material from saturation and erosion. Alligator cracking is an indication that base failure has already occurred. So crack sealing them is like closing the barn door after all the horses have already run away.
- Most of the time alligator cracks are less than ¼ inch wide, ie hairline cracks. See why we don’t seal hairline cracks above.
Edge Seal is not included in the general crack sealing price because:
- Many customers don’t want crack seal on their concrete
- Many customers don’t want to pay the extra money for this service
- Because of the reasons listed above, we consider it to be a separate service. If your estimator did not include a price for edge seal and you would like to consider getting this done please let us know, we are usually very happy to do it for you!
- Edge Sealing vertical edges is more difficult than horizontal surfaces. Furthermore vertical edges typically don’t receive a lot of rain water runoff, and so are less in need of sealing. Therefore vertical edges are not typically included in Edge Seal quotes. If you would like to consider getting this done please let us know, we would be very happy to do it for you!
WARNINGS
- The hot tar is approx 400 degrees, which can result in burns or bodily injury
- Tar is incompatible with water, so keep work areas clean and dry
- If the lot is in current use, the crew will circle around multiple times as cars come and go in an effort to hit everything, however any cracks that are consistently inaccessible will not be hit, and a remobilization fee will apply if you want us to come back to seal them.
- Unless stated otherwise in estimate, removal of weeds are the responsibility of the customer. Weeds are extremely tenacious and typically require multiple applications of weed killer, as well as a sterilant to insure they don’t grow back through the sealant.
- Please see Terms and Conditions for additional information.
- When necessary, 2-3 attempts will be made to bring crack seal material up to grade at the time of material injection. Any return trips requested by the client to inject additional material will be billed at time, material, fuel, plus a 20% markup.
HOW TO CARE FOR YOUR CRACK SEAL
There really isn’t much you need to do. Control and kill weeds and other vegetation in and around your asphalt to prevent it from growing through.
Watch for cracks to re-open or new cracks to form. When they reach a minimum of ¼ inch wide and deep, it’s time to look at sealing them.
Paving
What to Expect
CUSTOMER RESPONSIBILITIES
Turn off your sprinklers or other water sources so that the area is clean and dry when the crew is scheduled to arrive.
Remove all encumbrances from the work area, including dumpsters, vehicles, flower pots, trailers, etc.
Reschedule deliveries and pickups. Notify all affected parties.
Please notify your estimator if there is a specific place or way you would like our crews and equipment to access the project.
Please spray all weeds at least twice, approximately 7 and 14 days prior to
GENERAL
Paving involves compacting the base layer, laying hot mix asphalt, and rolling it smooth. This involves dump trucks, excavators, paving machines, rollers, and other heavy equipment. If base material is not adequate, existing material may need to be removed, and new road base installed. Crews generally need full access to the area during this process, however, if it is a large, multi day project, vehicles can generally drive and park on the base during the project. We love having our customers with us as we work on their project, so we are sure to meet their expectations. However, if you can’t be there, don’t worry, we will do a great job!
MATERIAL
Top Job buys hot mix from local sources. Mix used most often is a half inch commercial mix, unless another mix is specified, such as a DOT mix. There are small differences between each company’s half inch mix based on local available aggregates and mix design. Top Job has no control over these mixes. Staker, Kilgore, Granite, and Geneva all have excellent mixes, and we have never had a mix related failure on one of our projects. Asphalt contains hot oil which can discolor adjoining surfaces. Segregation is when some of the larger aggregates separate from the smaller aggregates to produce a difference in matte texture and look. This has the appearance of “rock pockets”. Segregation is unavoidable and occurs on every job. Some mixes segregate more than other mixes. Segregated areas will look more open and coarse than other areas. This is generally not a problem, and even excessive segregation can be rectified with a sealer, which you will need to have done anyway, to maintain your warranty. If you have a segregated area you are concerned about, let us know ahead of time, as there are things we can do during the sealing process to better address this.
HOW TO CARE FOR YOUR PAVEMENT
Do not park trailers, vehicles or place anything heavy, particularly with a high PSI, on your pavement for at least 30 days. Your asphalt starts soft and gets harder as it cures.
Keeping asphalt clean is important for long term service life. Rocks, sand and debris will scrub at the surface under traffic and wear the surface prematurely. Dirt will hold moisture longer than normal on the surface which can make the asphalt soft.
Sealing your asphalt, especially early in its life cycle, will extend the service life by 100% to 200%, assuming appropriate traffic loads. In order to maintain the warranty on your new asphalt, it must be sealed within 12 months.
Avoid letting gas, diesel, oil, and other harmful substances on the asphalt.
Control and kill weeds and other vegetation in and around your asphalt to prevent it from growing through. The importance of this cannot be overstated. Once weeds begin growing through, it is difficult to get under control.
When cracks reach a minimum of ¼ inch wide and deep, it’s time to look at sealing them. Additional info can be found in our “Cracks: What to Expect” document.
Concrete
What to Expect
CUSTOMER RESPONSIBILITIES
Turn off your sprinklers or other water sources so that the area is clean and dry when the crew is scheduled to arrive.
Remove all encumbrances from the work area, including dumpsters, vehicles, flower pots, trailers, etc.
Reschedule deliveries and pickups. Notify all affected parties.
Please notify your estimator if there is a specific place or way you would like our crews and equipment to access the project.
GENERAL
Installing concrete typically involves placing a gravel or road base layer, laying forms, pouring the concrete, finishing the surface, and removing the forms. This involves dump trucks, excavators, and other heavy equipment. If base material is not adequate or too high, existing material may need to be removed, and new base installed. Landscape restoration and removal of small chunks of concrete is the responsibility of the customer. We love having our customers with us as we work on their project, so we are sure to meet their expectations. However, if you can’t be there, don’t worry, we will do a great job!
HOW TO CARE FOR YOUR CONCRETE
Do not walk on your concrete for at least two days. Do not drive or put any items on your concrete for at least one week.
Do not park trailers, vehicles or place anything heavy, particularly with a high PSI, on your concrete for at least 30 days.
Concrete cracks. We encourage our crews to put expansion cuts or joints closer together than most contractors, and we make it a huge priority to cut joints as soon as we can after the pour. Despite these efforts, sometimes the concrete still cracks. We sincerely regret this, but feel that we go above and beyond industry standards to mitigate this, and therefore, hairline cracks are not a basis for a discount or warranty work.
Concrete should be sealed before winter, and resealed every couple of years, especially if any snow melt is used.
Keeping concrete clean is important for long term service life. Rocks, sand and debris will scrub at the surface under traffic and wear the surface prematurely.
Patching
What to Expect
CUSTOMER RESPONSIBILITIES
Turn off your sprinklers or other water sources so that the area is clean and dry when the crew is scheduled to arrive.
Remove all encumbrances from the work area, including dumpsters, vehicles, flower pots, trailers, etc.
Reschedule deliveries and pickups. Notify all affected parties.
HOW TO CARE FOR YOUR PATCHES
Do not park trailers, vehicles or place anything heavy, particularly with a high PSI, on your pavement for at least 30 days. Your asphalt starts soft and gets harder as it cures.
Avoid letting gas, diesel, oil, and other harmful substances on the asphalt.
Sealing around your patches after a year or two can sometimes help them last longer. However, the closer to the end of the pavement life cycle, the lower the return on investment, and you may never recoup your investment. When cracks reach a minimum of ¼ inch wide and deep, it MAY be time to look at sealing them. Additional info can be found in our “Cracks: What to Expect” document.
GENERAL
There are 4 main types of asphalt patches:
- Remove and Replace (R&R)
- Pothole Patching
- Overlay
- Full Depth
- Remove and Replace is just what it sounds like, crews remove damaged asphalt areas, compact the base, and replace the asphalt. Remove and Replace is more of a long term repair option. This is best done in larger areas on newer pavements. These patches can be expensive, but can greatly increase the service life of a new pavement that is experiencing a few problem areas. Removing and Replacing asphalt in old cracked pavements often will accelerate the deterioration of the area adjacent to the patch, unless the entire cracked area is removed. These patches are graded at or above the surrounding pavement in an endeavor to keep water from pooling on the patch.
- Pothole Patching is also what it sounds like. Loose chunks and debris are removed from the hole, and asphalt is placed and compacted in the hole. Potholes are graded and compacted higher than the surrounding area to ensure no water pools on the patch, and to give more thickness and durability to the patch. Pothole patches are very budget friendly, and are ideal for keeping an old pavement in serviceable condition until it can be replaced.
- An overlay is when 2-3 inches of asphalt is laid over an existing pavement. An asphalt sticky tack coat is placed beforehand to ensure the new layer sticks to the old. These are generally performed on large areas or an entire parking lot or driveway, however small areas can also be overlaid. Overlays are a good option when the asphalt has become wavy and bumpy, or when the surface has become excessively poor. Excessive cracking is generally NOT a good condition for an overlay, as the cracks in the old layer will “reflect” up through the new layer within a short period. Even with reflective cracking, there is substantial benefit to overlays, since the surface is smooth again, and the reflective cracks, while still visible, are much smaller and tighter than the originals. Obviously overlays are 2-3 inches higher than the existing pavement. Edges of overlays are “feathered” or ramped down to meet uncovered asphalt and concrete, or 1-2 inches of asphalt can be ground along those edges to produce a smooth transition. Obviously there is substantial cost behind grinding. Crews can usually improve poor drainage during the course of an overlay, however substantial changes to drainage is not possible, and extra mix may be required to improve drainage very much.
Patches almost always look more open and coarse than existing asphalt, sometimes with rough edges, because asphalt is made with rocks. This is generally not a problem, and even excessive segregation can be rectified with a sealer, which you should be doing every 3-5 years anyway.
Striping
What to Expect
CUSTOMER RESPONSIBILITIES
Turn off your sprinklers or other water sources so that the pavement is clean and dry when the crew is scheduled to arrive.
Remove all encumbrances from the work area, including dumpsters, vehicles, flower pots, trailers, etc.
If striping is being done immediately after a surface treatment, it is easiest to leave the area barricaded to keep it clear for striping.
GENERAL
Line striping is generally a quick and easy process. The paint dries very quickly, and can be reopened to traffic. If there is a lot of stenciling, this can be time consuming.
Generally, we bid to restripe according to the existing layout. If you want something changed, you need to let us know beforehand. Not only could this affect the price, but striping is so fast that we may finish the area you want to change before you get the chance to tell us onsite.
Different sealers and paints may be incompatible. If you plan to have different contractors perform these services, you need to make sure the products are compatible.
HOW TO CARE FOR YOUR STRIPES
There really isn’t anything you need to do. You should be aware, however, that striping on fresh sealer within 24-48 hrs that hasn’t fully cured will cause your stripes to not last as long as they could otherwise. On a fully cured surface, stripes will generally last 3-4 years. If striping is done within a couple hours, stripes usually only last one year before needing to be redone. Most commercial customers want minimal down time, and don’t want to have to clear traffic multiple times, so our default is to stripe same day when possible. If you would like to wait and let your sealer cure, please contact the scheduling coordinator.
What Our Customers Are Saying
“Very impressed with the quality of their work and the organization of the company. The project estimator was spot on as to when the bid would be received and the work was professional from start to finish. I appreciated the opportunity for a walkthrough inspection after the crack filling was completed as I had some very large cracks in the asphalt. I give this company a ten out of ten (which I really do) and highly recommend them.”